Macau :- A backpackers "Budget Economy Travel" and a study of the "Gamboling Industry"..

HOVERCRAFT TO MACAU FROM HONGKONG:- Inside the plush hovercraft.

Seafarer/Backpacker Tourist Mr Rudolph.A.Furtado at the "Hongkong Ferry Terminal" to board "Macau Hovercraft".

Thursday(15/12/2005) :- The "Macau Canidrome", the only Greyhound racing track in Asia.

GUIA LIGHTHOUSE on GUIA HILL in Macau.

"SENADO SQUARE" in Christmas and New Year Festive decorations.

In Hongkong i was residing in "Singh Guest House" situated in "Chungking Mansion" and accommodated into a self contained/attached bath in room no 123 of the 7th floor lodging house."Chungking Mansion" was a skyscraper building housing various "Lodges" on most of its floors , each lodge belonging to owners of various nationalities and cultures, all existing harmoniously in a single building. The "Multi-cultural diversity" and "Economic Diversity" of Hongkong can be experienced by just visiting "Chungking Mansion", a tourist attraction due to its own peculiar strategic location and multicultural ownerships, also an advertisement to the slogan ,"Harmony in multicultural and multireligious diversity". As usual  got up at 0500hrs on Thursday(15-12-2005) and after a quick shower , packed my "Backpackers trolley bag" and made my way towards "China Ferry Terminal", a distance of approximately 15 minutes from my residence in Chungking Mansion.The "Ferry Terminal" was as clean as an airport with multiple departures/arrivals terminals for various "Catamaran Ferry's" and having booked my ticket the previous day, costing 137Hk$'s(Rs 876 approx)  boarded the "Macau Catamaran Ferry", departing Hongkong at 0800hrs and arriving in Macau at 0905 hrs, at a catamaran speed of 60Km/hr. The one hour journey was stress free with no rolling or pitching and absolutely identical to a "jet ride", only difference that this was on water and not in the air.On reaching "Macau Ferry Terminal" i collected various "tourist Brochures" and made a few inquiries regarding the local hotels and also cheap modes of transport. Boarded a local bus outside the "Macau Ferry Terminal" and after much inquiries with the local bus passengers managed to get down near the main centre of downtown Macau. My next worry was finding a cheap hotel and finally after much walking did manage to find a room at the "Central Hotel' in main Macau City, costing 150 patacas/day(Patacas are slightly lower in value than the HK dollar). Public Bus service in Macau is excellent and it reminded me of Goa (India)in many respects as it was a former "Portuguese colony" before being handed over to the Chinese. Most of the prominent streets have "Portuguese names" and also most of the architecture is typical European as seen in Panjim in Goa(India). Visited "Senado Square" its main town centre since centuries and also hosts all important public events and celebrations even in the present era, a ancient Mediterranean styled city centre with numerous churches and cathedrals. Visited St Dominic's church built in 1590's by the "Dominican Friars" and now partly converted into a museum of sacred art and later the Se Cathedral. The "San Malo" locality of Macau is the main old town center and hence all the historic "Portuguese era" architecture is situated in the vicinity of this entire area and hence visited the "Leal Senado" building , Macau's first municipal centre, originally built in 1784 and situated on "Avenida De Almeida Ribiero street(San Malo in Chinese meaning "New Street")" next to "Senado Square".

In Macau during the "Festive Season".An Indian will find bizarre similarities between Goa in India and Macau in China.Both were Portuguese Colonies(Thursday 15-12-2005)

"A - MA   Temple", the oldest Chinese temple in Macau.(Friday 15-12-2005)

                                                                                                                                                                  The entire "Senado Square" was decorated for the festive christmas season, with a huge christmas tree in the centre and various cultural programmes organised every evening for the tourists as well as locals.

"Cycle Rickshaws" are popular with tourists in Macau.

The hotel receptionist of "central hotel" was helpful in giving me directions for visiting the most prominent landmarks of Macau by local bus as affording a "Tour Taxi' was beyond my ambitious "Tour Project", besides, Macau was a small "One-horse town" compared to mainland Hongkong. Macau was previously famous for the manufacture of "Firecrackers" before its invention as a tourist Mecca for gambolling.I spent the entire day visiting the popular tourist sites,one of the most beautiful and significant being the ruins of St Paul, a architectural marvel as the entire 17th century basilica was destroyed by fire but just the front arch survived and is preserved as a ruin and reminder of Macau's European heritage, akin to Goa in India. The church looks hauntingly beautiful in its present ruined condition and is akin to viewing one of the wonders of the World and is the most symbolic and famous landmark of Macau. Visited the "Monte Fort" also called the citadel of St Paul of the Mount which was built as part of the "St Pauls church complex" and meant to defend the city from possible attacks. Its just a short climb to the forts peak which houses the museum of Macau besides giving a "birds eye view" of the "Ruins of St Paul" below and China across the channel. .The historic center of Macau is inscribed in the "World Heritage list". In the evening visited the "A-Ma Temple", the oldest Chinese temple in Macau dedicated to the Taoist Goddess of the sea,which gave its name to Macau as the area was called A-Ma Gao which the Portuguese converted to Macau. Observed the ritual of the burning of scented incense sticks (Agarbattis in Hindi) in the A-Ma temple , besides, the Chinese don't have restrictions for non-Confucians visiting their temples.Visited the "Macau Maritime Museum" situated close to the "A-Ma Temple" and supposed to have been constructed on the actual spot of arrival of the Portuguese by ship to Macau and later colonizing the entire territory.The local Macau citizens call themselves "Macanese" and speak less of English and more of Cantonese and Portuguese akin to Hongkong having English as well as Cantonese. Later visited the "Maritime Museum" and viewed some ancient sailing ships.Later boarded a local bus and landed back to my hotel, refreshed myself and got ready to visit the "Grey-hound racing" stadium" which were having dog races on Thursday night, hence i had pre-planned my tour itinerary from Hongkong accordingly with a little help from the "Internet".I had always wanted to see the sport of "Greyhound racing" as i was actively involved in "Horse-racing", besides , i thought that "greyhound racing" was a low budget sport compared to "horse-racing", hence dreams of becoming a "greyhound owner" if the sport was introduced in India.The bus travel to the "Macau Canidrome" located at Avenida general Castila Branco was tedious and lengthy due to peak hours traffic congestion and as usual managed to alight the bus at the right stop after inquiries with fellow passengers.

Macau Canidrome(Thursday 15/12/2005):- The only city in Asia to have " Greyhound Dog racing ".This is the section for placing bets.

Macau is the only city in Asia to conduct "Greyhound Racing" and i was expecting to find a "HOUSE-FULL'" crowd as "Greyhound Races" were conducted only on 2 days in the entire week. The "Greyhound Canidrome" was absolutely empty, with just a few hundred people. It was a surprise as i was expecting "tourists", later realizing that i was one of the few rare tourists, the rest all being local Macanese !

Macau Canidrome (Thursday 15/12/2005) :- Start of the race. Greyhounds being assembled at the " STARTING GATES" for the race.The dogs are put into each single trap door box.At the start of the race the trap door is opened and the dogs race to the finish chasing a "Mechanical Rabbit Bait" running ahead of  them  that screeches and emits a spark to excite the dogs. The races are held at night under floodlights.

The first race started at 1945 hrs and the greyhounds with their handlers were paraded in the paddock prior to the races, akin to "Horse-racing". The stadium was similar to a "horse-racing track" about 550 meters in circumference  having  electronic betting boards and local closed circuit television display .

Watching the " Greyhound Races" on " C.C.T.V" inside the Macau Canidrome.

The race commentary was in Cantonese and hence i couldn't understand any of the races and neither form of the racing dogs, in other words, i didn't understand the finer points of this graceful animal gambling sport.

Macau Canidrome(Thursday 15/12/2005) :- A tourist photo with a racing greyhound .One for the history books of Greyhound racing in Asia.A Greyhound normally retires from racing between  4-6 years of age."EAR TATOO'S" are used for identification of racing grey hounds.

P.S . OBITUARY OF MACAU CANIDROME ON SATURDAY 21 July 2018 :- The "Macau Canidrome" was originally opened in 1931 and later closed in 1942  due to lack of public interest. In the 1960's Gambling entrepreneur Stanley Ho started transforming Macau into a Gambling city by obtaining a Gaming license monopoly and establishing the "Sociedade de Turismo e Diversoes de Macau( STDM)". Greyhound racing resumed  again in 1963 to be finally closed down permanently on Saturday (21/7/2018)..With its closure so also the last and only legal "Grey Hound Racing Canidrome " sports entertainment in Asia had come to an end. The "Canidrome Club" was owned by Macau legislator Angela.Leong ,the wife of Billionaire gambling tycoon Stanley.Ho who was instrumental in converting Macau from a sleepy Portuguese era fishing village to the World's gambling capital. Animal right's groups had canvassed for closure of the Canidrome due to animal cruelty and euthanasia of underperforming greyhound dogs which is also the case of "Greyhound Canidrome's" in Europe. In Europe "Greyhound Racing" as a spectator /gambling sport is rapidly on the decline with many Greyhound stadiums downing shutters .With the "INTERNET" revolutionizing gambling through "On-Line Betting" sites offering the punter  a choice of different sports as also a decline in spectator attendances at "Greyhound Stadiums" across the globe due to lack of interest in the sport had put this animal sport in terminal decline. At its peak racing business  around 120 dogs took part in 16 races  held on 5 day's in a week at the Macau Canidrome, akin to normal office work day's. It had 2 grand stands, several private lounges and a V.I.P lounge. Investigation showed that if a dog did not place within the first 3 in 5 races then it was euthanized and its body incinerated. Real cruel and a miserable short life for a majority of the "ALSO RAN" greyhound dogs .Australia was a major supplier of Greyhound racing dogs to the Macau Canidrome.The final death blow may have  actually been the fact that the Macau Canidrome was running at a loss as i realized during my visit in 2005  to the Canidrome which was almost empty with just only 300/400 spectators/punters for such a huge plush stadium investment . Seems the "Animal Rights Groups" protests only hastened the death knell or was a good reason for closure of a unprofitable Macau Canidrome by the owners/shareholders. Isn't "Horse Racing" also a  cruel animal sport with laggard horses slaughtered as meat products in some country's, most famous being the case of "Ferdinand" ."Ferdinand" was the , winner of the 1986 "Kentucky Derby" and "Breeders Cup"  that proved a failure as a stud in Japan and sent to the slaughter house instead of a "Retirement Pasture" which it duly deserved just for winning a "Kentucky Derby".Every sport has its positive and negative aspects including "Animal sports" .I myself have seen a few horses being euthanized on  racecourses after breaking a leg and so  ultimately its economics and not purely 'Animal Welfare" that governs the survival of a "Animal Sport".   

 

Greyhounds with their human handlers paraded on the racetrack in front of the Grandstand before the start of the race.Notice the numbers on the Greyhounds as well as the illuminated " Betting Board" on the ground that shows the fluctuatimg betting odds .Very similar to horse racing.

I just clicked a lot of photographs including myself with a local retired greyhound, a "tourist souvenir".Seeing a greyhound in motion under floodlit lights is watching poetry in motion, as they are even faster than race-horses on a 'Pound-Pound basis" and the race is over in a few eye blinks .Its a tragedy that most racing greyhounds are euthanized after their racing career akin to race-horses being slaughtered in some country's as their upkeep is expensive and hence this sport faces a lot of opposition and criticism from animal activists, including myself. I watched a few races, had some snacks, toured the canidrome enclosure and later exited before the last few races at 2130 hrs as i had to catch the bus back to my hotel, dreading a late night taxi ride at an exorbitant cost. Macau also conducts "Horse-racing" which i didn't visit as the "Mahalaxmi racecourse" in Mumbai(India) , considered one of the world's most beautiful was my "second home", hence i was totally saturated with the sport of "Horse-racing", besides, had visited the World famous Sha-Tin race-course in Hongkong. As a "Single Backpacker", travel mode is a major worry as well as expense and hence every backpacker has to plan his or her "Single Tours" meticulously, especially when traveling on a frugal budget. Visited "Casino Lisboa", the first pioneer casino of Macau, which was just approximately 15 minutes walking distance from my hotel and this was the first instance in my life that i had visited a genuine authentic casino.

CASINO LIBOA that started the Casino revolution in Macau.This casino is owned by the Godfather of Casino gambling in Macau ,Mr  Stanley .Ho and was built in the late 1960's.Over the decades it has been expanded although this original decor of the casino at night is its trademark identity. Photography is not allowed inside any casino in the World let alone casino's in Macau.

Photography is not allowed inside the casino as also wearing of hats or caps, hence took out the "signature Photo" of this landmark casino from the exterior, a photo that dominates many magazines that advertise "Casino Gambling".It was late in the night and the casino was full with various "gambling Tables" catering to different forms of gambling. There were separate floors for different types of gambling, akin to a "Gambling Mall", something to be seen to be believed. There was a separate "V.I.P" gambling lounge, understandably for the "Millionaire class" of gamblers.

A view of a few of the numerous gambling casino hotels of Macau." Macau Fishermans wharf "theme park  under construction  of which a part of the enormous theme park is designed in pagoda style and  a most prominent landmark of the vicinity .In the background is the recently built " Sands Macao (2004)" owned by "Las Vegas Sands"  of  Las Vegas in U.S.A.

I have never been a "Casino Gambler" in my entire life as i hate letting your destiny be governed entirely by "LUCK".Hence, the "Slot machines" nor "Matka" of Mumbai were never ever my place of "sin leisure", preferring "Horse-racing" which is 50% intellectual human skill. "Casino Lisboa" has still preserved its "Old World Charm" and has a lot of local "Tricycle rickshaw taxis" parked outside the hotel and meant for tourists .Toured the entire gambling complex of "Casino Lisboa" and at approx 2330 hrs walked back to my hotel late in the night . In 1988 in the port of Maputo  with civil war in Mozambique walking back to my ship at midnight after a late night hotel dinner  forever banished my fear of walking the lonely path. Reached my hotel safely being one of the few pedestrians on the road as crime is almost non-existent in "Communist China", reasons very obvious to us Capitalists. Had a good nights sleep with a hectic schedule awaiting me the next day.
Woke up early as usual on Friday(16-12-2005) and started my "Backpackers" discovery tour of Macau, akin to "trekking", my favourite outdoors nature hobby.Only difference being that this was no jungle or forests but an unexplored tourist city.With the help of my tourist maps and literature i caught the local bus near "Senado Square" and proceeded to "Guia Hill " the highest point in Macau.The bus ended near the "Sands Hotel" bus depot which is close to the "Hongkong-Macau Ferry Pier" and is the face of "21st century casino's" in Macau, America's "Las Vegas" being totally replicated in Asia. It was only about 0900 hrs in the morning, hence i decided to visit the "Sands Casino", the ultimate modern luxury casino with a giant "television Screen" on the building entrance facade, advertising the pleasures of Casino gambling.As usual camera's were allowed but not photography, unless you illegally used "Spy Camera's" akin to la film "Casino Royale". The gambling tables and decor of "The Sands,Macau" resembled a artificial film set straight out of a "James Bond" movie ,but unbelievably genuine and authentic. I was surprised to find gamblers betting on the "Tables" at 0900 hrs instead of having their breakfast and they comprised of different ages and sex's, the old and the youth, men and women. "GAMBLERS" are one of the few  species of the human race who are immune to politics,religion,race,nationality or sex. The World would have had more peace and less war's if a majority of the human race had a "GAMBLERS MINDSET". Observed that a majority of the casino employees at the "Gaming Tables" were young youth akin to the "Call-Center Employees" of the "I.T Industry" in India. All "casino croupiers" and "Table operators" had to undergo a course in "Gambling" to seek employment in Macau's gambling Industry."Gambling" is the only entertainment that doesn't differentiate between caste, creed, nationality, colour or sex, the only qualification being "MONEY". After sightseeing the entire gambling complex of the "Sands" next visited the "Grand Prix museum" situated within walking distance of the casino. My photograph inside the museum complex forms the "Cover Picture" of this blog. The entrance ticket was 10 Patacas and the museum had an excellent display of racing cars and motorcycles, many of them having competed in the local "Guia Circuit" of "Formula-3" grand prix. Some of the most famous names in "Formula-1" racing like late Ayrton .Senna and Michael.Shumacher have cut their racing teeth at the "Guia circuit" before progressing to greater fame in "Formula-1" racing. As a recreational drinker the "Wine Museum" was my next place of visit situated next door to the "Grand Prix museum" with a 15 patacas entrance fee and a complimentary free drink of wine ,besides ,explaining the complete history and method of manufacture of different types of wine.After the "Wine Museum visit" had a casual walk along the "waterfront" surveying the gigantic constructions of casino's, the most attractive being the "Macau Fishermans Wharf".It is supposed to become Macau's largest "gambling theme park" and resembled a artificial "Film Set" rather than a multimillion dollar casino cum theme park, such was its unique beauty and location.

AMAZING SIGHT:- Turtles basking in the Sun in a zoo pond.(Friday 16-12-2005)

"Greyhound Dogs" being paraded in the "Dog Paddock" before the styart of the races akin to "Horse-racing".Notice a dog being "EXAMINED"  for "Racing Fitness" at the end of the paddock.(Thursday  15-12-2005)

Ascended the "Guia Hill " by "cable Car" and not "trekking" as i didn't want to waste precious energy in mindless "physical tests".I could do the same in India, besides, i had a long "Solo tour " itinerary of totally "Unexplored virgin country" ahead."Solo backpacking tours" although costlier is more fascinating than any other forms of "Adventure travel" as you are alone in a total foreign country. Normally, "Tourist backpackers" always travel in groups, a pair or as a couple, but, i might be one of the rare "Backpackers" that loves traveling alone on a journey of "Self-Discovery" and although its dangerous, its the ultimate travel experience .On the "Guia Hill" are the "Guia Fortress" built in 1637 while the "Lighthouse" was built in 1865 and still in use, besides , it was the first "Lighthouse" built on the China coast. The view of Macau is breathtaking from this tiny peak. a unique preservation of ancient and modern history.Visited "Our Lady of Guia Chapell" situated next to the lighthouse and later walked down the steps of the hill reaching the flora garden at the base. Visited the "Barrier Gate" also called "Portas Do Cerco" which is the border between China and Macau and the main "Train Terminal" for journey between Macau and other parts of China.During Portuguese rule it was the division between European and Eastern cultures and governance, the border between china and Portugal Macau. Spent the entire afternoon strolling and window-shopping along the streets of Macau, experiencing the common life of the Macanese. The "Old Macau" city has narrow lanes, clean with small structured buildings, besides, the peak hour traffic jams are numerous due to the narrow streets.Two days was an excellent stay in Macau, enough to view the city and tour sites of personal interest as touring the entire city is pointless and impossible. Checked out of "Central Hotel" at approximately 1500 hrs and caught the local bus to "Macau Ferry Terminal" boarding the ferry to Hongkong at 1630hrs.The return journey to Hongkong was the same , only difference being that the ferry docks at the Mainland pier in "Central Hongkong" and not at "China Ferry Terminal" and hence had to catch a train from "Hongkong Central" to "Tsim Tsha Shui" center. Checked in to my lodge in "Singh Guest House", end of a short and enterprising trip to Macau, the gambling center of Asia and the World and a city which blends eastern and European cultures.

Friday(16/12/2005) :- "BARRIER GATE":- At the Barrier Gate which was the former border between "Portuguese Macau" and Mainland China".Crossing the "Barrier Gate" leads to China.The "Barrier Gate" is the main train terminus from Macau to China.